Thursday, June 29, 2023

- Manual vacuum pump

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One moment, please.Hand Operated Vacuum Pump with Gauge for Filtration Physics



  Manual vacuum pump a Review. This hand operated vacuum pump and manual vacuum pump gauge is made from PVC. Instead of the valve from McMaster-Carr or the fish store, you can get a vacuum vacuim valve at the same auto привожу ссылку store where you get your pump. Any advice for how to use a found pump that does have a gauge? The net atmospheric force on whatever you evacuate will be over 11 pounds per square inch or over pounds per square footwhich is enough for mnaual tasks requiring vacuum.    

 

Manual vacuum pump - Jeulin



   

The crucial first step is to get the right pumpa simple old-fashioned one of what used to be the standard design. This is both a hose barb for attaching the hose, and a check valve we'll need to gut 5 reasonably long throw and reasonably large diameter for a bike pump ; a skinny pump will be slower, and 6 no pressure gauge. Pumps with pressure gauges often use a different kind of check valve, and have air space around where the gauge attaches that may affect how much vacuum you can pull once the conversion is done.

You can fix those things, and I have, but it's easier just to get a no-frills pump. Otherwise, look at the pictures in this instructable, and try to find a very similar pump. I have no connection to Auto Zone or Slime, and no reason to think that other brands aren't just as good, but if you use exactly the same pump, you should have zero difficulty following the directions. Looking for a "floor pump" at an auto parts store is a better bet than looking for a "bike pump" at a bike shop.

Lowe's sells it by the foot in the plumbing department, for about 30 cents a foot, so you'll want a dollar or so's worth. That's a kind clear flexible tubing with braided reinforcement; small diameters stand up very well to vacuum, unlike some other small hoses. McMaster-Carr sells these online. I tried that and mine leaked, as well as restricting flow a little more than I like, but some people are happy with them.

If you go that route, you'll need to use smaller-diameter hose to connect it; let me know how it works out for you. I got mine for 25 cents at a local tool place, but you'll likely have to buy a 2- or 4-pack at most hardware or auto parts stores, and pay a dollar or two. You'll also need few tools: 1 An adjustable wrench, or a non-adjustable one that fits the hose fitting on your pump.

You might be able to get by with a file and a pair of pliers, or even just some needle-nosed pliers. Rags or paper towels are good, because you'll be dealing with greasy things. To reverse the piston disk, unscrew the cylinder top, and pull the handle out all the way, so that the the piston disk comes clear of the cylinderbe careful, it's greasy. You don't want to lose the grease and get it all over other things, so prop the shaft up with something to keep the piston disk off your work area.

Have paper towels or something handy. Notice that the piston disk is actually a shallow cup shape, with a lip around it. That lip flares out and seals against the cylinder on the downstroke. Now 1 Unscrew the nut on the end. Now you need to get that stuff back in the cylinder, and you don't want to scratch the piston disk on the sharp inside edge of the cylinder, so: 6 Pinch the rubber disk from the sides, into an oval shape, 7 Angle the shaft and the disk about 30 degrees relative to the open end of the cylinder, and insert one end of the oval, and 8 Gently work the rest of the disk into the cylinder, pushing it inward anyplace it seems to catch on the edge, and straighten the shaft.

Now you can wipe the nasty grease off your fingers. You're half done. The exhaust check valve is in the hose attachment fitting; you need to gut it so that air can flow freely into the pump through it. But first you need to get the hose off, to get at the fitting to modify it. There is a piece of thin metal crimped around the end of the hose, to clamp it onto the fitting. You need to get that off, so you can remove the hose.

Cut the thin metal with tin snips, nippers, a rotary tool, or whatever you have available that can cut thin metal. You might even be able to tear it apart with a small screwdriver and needle-nosed pliers, with some effort. Pry and bend and tear it apart bit by bit. Once you've got the crimp off, work the hose off the fitting. You'll find a "hose barb" therea hollow cylindrical bit that sticks up into the hose, with a flared part to help it grip the hose from the inside. Now examine the hose fitting carefully.

There's an oval cavity inside it, and a little metal ball that can move back and forth in that cavity. When it gets sucked toward the pump on the upstroke, it makes a seal, but when it gets blown toward the hose on the downstroke, it doesn't. This lets air out, but not in; it's what's called a "ball check valve," and it's built right into the hose barb fitting.

You probably can see the ball, just barely, when you tip the hose barb down To get the ball out, you need to make the hole as big as the ball all the way to the end of the barb.

For my Slime A, it was easier than that. I noticed that there were a couple of slivers of metal on opposite sides of the end of the hose barb, which had just been bent inward to make the retaining parts. All I had to do was bend them outward again. I did that by inserting a screw into the end of the barb, and turning it with a screwdriver while holding the fitting with a wrench.

The threads of the screw gripped the two bent-in pieces of metal and pulled them outward enough to make room for the ball to come out. For other pumps of a generally similar old-school design, you may have to drill the hose barb to make the hole big enough to release the ball. Once you have the ball out, check to see if you have a hole clear through the fitting. There may also be a piece of rubber in there that needs to be removed.

In my case, I tapped the fitting on the table a few times, and a little piece of rubber just fell out. If you have a different brand of pump, you may need to drill yours to tear up the rubber, and blow the bits out. Drilling straight through fitting is not difficult, and may be a good idea anyway, if you want to go to the trouble. See the next step. Whatever kind of check valve is in there, drilling right through it is bound to help remove it.

I decided to make the hole through the hose fitting a little bigger, to reduce any resistance to air flow. This doesn't make much difference most of the time, because the resistance there is usually small relative to how hard you have to pump anyway, for any substantial vacuum level. It does make rapidly pumping larger volumes of air at lower vacuum levels slightly easier. Like near the beginning of evacuating a vacuum bag or the vacuum tank for my vacuum former.

As usual with drilling metal, you should to do that in little spurts, at fairly low RPM's, and frequently pull the drill out to get shavings out of the way and let the bit cool. This took about a minute of drilling in several goes spread out over a few minutes, drilling from either end while holding the fitting firmly with a wrench. I used titanium-coated but very cheap drill bit from Harbor Freight. If you drill too fast, or for too long, you'll just heat things up and dull the bit faster.

Once you've drilled it, blow the metal shavings out. You don't want them getting in the pump. Now cut a short piece of hose, about an inch or so long, and fit it over the hose barb.

The piece of hose should be long enough to accommodate the barb, and the barbed end of a check valve, but not much longer. Maybe a quarter of an inch extra. Any extra space between the pump and the check valve will reduce the vacuum level you can pull, so don't use a long piece of hose here.

That will ensure that it doesn't lose its seal, and that it doesn't slip off. Under vacuum, it probably won't lose its seal because vacuum will suck it inward onto the barb; if it slips off, though, you're hosed. It should be snug; work it in most of the way. Once that's done, you can attach the long remainder of the hose to the other barb, in the same way; the other end is what you attach to whatever you're sucking from.

Now you have a vacuum pump. Try it out. Thank you for posting this recipe! I was able to draft a vacuum pump quite simply and with the bagging equipment found at Aerospace Composites , I put together a pretty good system for some fiberglass layups that I'm working on for my motorcycle project. Here's a fuel tank prototype that I've been working on. I used a check valve from what appears to be a fish tank setup ACP was the supplier.

Reply 7 years ago on Introduction. Reply 15 years ago on Introduction. Very nice. Keep us posted. Maybe you should do an Instructible on low-end vacuum bagging.

I think a lot of people would be interested. Reply 9 years ago on Introduction. I'll see about putting something together. Of course I'd cite your vacuum solution as a means to the end :. Apparently this instructable is the "hack of the day" over on www. A question came up over there about reversing the exhaust check valve rather than replacing it with the one from McMaster-Carr.

With the Slime A, anyway. You could clean the oils off the exhaust hose fitting and the place it attaches, and epoxy it in backwards, with the hose barb pointing into the threaded hole.

You might need a spacer such as a large nut to keep the hose barb from sticking all the way to the bottom of the threaded hole; I'm not sure. Then you'd need to epoxy a new hose barb on top of that. Hot glue would probably work, if you duct tape the hose to the cylinder near the joint, to avoid stressing the joint if the hose gets pulled on.

That would let you make a vacuum pump for around 13 dollars with stuff from the auto parts store and a home improvement store, and not have to wait for mail order. Question 1 year ago on Introduction. I have been searching online for what I thought was a simple question with no luck and it is related to your post. I was looking to use a syphon squeeze ball pump normally used to suck gas and other liquids, but use it to suck air and create a vacuum Not looking for a project here just wanted to buy a syphon ball and use it to suck air like you did in your peeps video Do you think that this would work?



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